It emerged out of the refugee crisis at the end of the Vietnam War, taking over a neighborhood that had held mostly Arab-speaking peoples. Today, recognizing overcrowding in the district, the Paris civic authorities are imposing new, not particularly welcome, restrictions on population densities.

14th Arrondissement (Montparnasse)-- The northern end of this large arrondissement is devoted to Montparnasse, home of the "lost generation" and stamping ground of Stein, Toklas, Hemingway, and other American expats of the 1920s. After World War II, it ceased to be the center of intellectual life, but the memory lingers in its cafes.

One of the monuments that sets the tone of the neighborhood is Rodin's statue of Balzac at the junction of boulevards Montparnasse and Raspail. At this corner are some of the world's most famous literary cafes, including La Rotonde, Le Select, La Dôme, and La Coupole.

Though Gertrude Stein avoided them (she loathed cafes), other American expatriates, including Hemingway and Fitzgerald, had no qualms about enjoying a drink here (or quite a few of them, for that matter).

Stein stayed at home (27 rue de Fleurus) with Alice B. Toklas, collecting paintings, including those of Picasso, and entertaining the likes of Max Jacob, Apollinaire, T. S. Eliot, and Matisse. 15th Arrondissement (Gare Montparnasse/Institut Pasteur)--

This is a mostly residential district beginning at Gare Montparnasse and stretching to the Seine. In size and population, it's the largest quarter of Paris but draws few tourists and has few attractions, except for the Parc des Expositions, the Cimetiere du Montparnasse, and the Institut Pasteur.

In the early 20th century, many artists -- like Chagall, Leger, and Modigliani -- lived here in a shared atelier known as "The Beehive." 16th Arrondissement (Trocadero/Bois de Boulogne)-- Originally the village of Passy, where Benjamin Franklin lived during most of his time in Paris, this district is still reminiscent of Proust's world.

Highlights include the Bois de Boulogne; the Jardin du Trocadero; the Maison de Balzac; the Musee Guimet (famous for its Asian collections); and the Cimetiere de Passy, resting place of Manet, Talleyrand, Giraudoux, and Debussy.

One of the largest arrondissements, it's known today for its well-heeled bourgeoisie, its upscale rents, and some rather posh (and, according to its critics, rather smug) residential boulevards.